CHARLOTTE, N.C. — Highway 129, known as The Tail of the Dragon, is the stuff of legend, especially for motorcyclists. Boasting 318 curves in 11 miles, "The Dragon" beckons thousands of riders each year to tame its bounty of winding curves and crests through the Great Smoky Mountains.
But it's dangerous. Two motorcyclists have died in crashes on The Dragon in the last week. On Monday, 70-year-old Earl Stoeppelwerth's Yamaha motorcycle crossed the double yellow line while making a right turn. As he made the turn, Stoeppelwerth sideswiped a car traveling in the opposite direction, throwing him from the motorcycle.
So, what's the appeal of The Dragon?
Other than the incredible views of the mountains, it's one of America's great highways for a high-energy Sunday cruise. With no public intersections on the 11-mile stretch, travelers can enjoy the breathtaking scenery and not have to worry about blind drives or cars pulling out in front of them.
The posted speed limit is 30 mph. But several veteran bikers told USA TODAY that tickets usually go to "people who are doing something stupid." Semi trucks aren't allowed on the road. If a trucker is caught, they will probably lose their license for navigating The Dragon.
In 2016, Blount County deputies wrote 861 tickets on The Dragon. Out of more than 90 crashes that year, 48 people were seriously injured and three died.
"We're not just up there to write tickets. We would like to educate people as far as safety on the dragon before we actually start writing tickets," Blount County Sheriff's Office Lt. Rick Ailey said. "Most of the people that are killed or severely injured up here are from out of state or out of the country and not used to having this type of roadway."
According to Ron Johnson, who along with his wife Nancy, operates tailofthedragon.com, the road didn't gain popularity with motorcyclists until the 1990s when it was featured in several magazines.
Johnson retired as a firefighter in West Palm Beach, Fla.; he and his wife moved to Robbinsville, N.C., southeast of Deals Gap, in 1991. They’d vacationed in the area since the 1970s. Taking note of the road’s growing appeal to cyclists, the couple launched tailofthedragon.com in 2000 and filled the site with maps, tips and essays.
The website spawned merchandise ranging from shirts and caps to stickers and decals and videos, and the Johnsons acquired the “Tail of the Dragon” trademark. Marketing drove visitors. Their original on-site souvenirs shack evolved into the substantial shop across U.S. 129 from the diner. Visitors are encouraged to write their names on the posts and beams of the large wood verandah; Johnson says he orders Sharpies by the bag.
The Coke machine by the entrance is decorated with a print of his annotated Tail of the Dragon map — which is included in Johnson’s free, 32-page fold-over brochure/guide and also appears on shirts and other merchandise.
On it, stretches and key turns of the 11-mile route are duly marked and named. Does he have a favorite place on it? “Yes,” he said. “In fact, I named it after myself.” Ron’s Run is 7.8 miles into Tennessee.
What’s changed on the roadway over the years? Johnson said the posted end-to-end speed limit dropped from 55 mph to 40 and then 30. Also, auto tourism has increased from about 20% to half of all visitors, thanks in part to caravans of sports car clubs.
But it's not all fun. Johnson said the highway has taken its toll on riders in many of its 318 curves.
"I've seen several people die on 'The Dragon.' When we first started the business there were two kids that stopped and bought a t-shirt up at the dam overlook and took off. We hear a smash, and we went out and the kid was hurt pretty bad. [The driver] went off the mountain and hit a tree," Johnson said. "I can go through 'The Dragon' now and recall the serious accidents I've seen. Every mile marker. I know who was there and what happened."
